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Our Three Cents: Meet Your New Best Friends
Article by Matt Scott
Photos by Lonely Planet Images\Noboru Komine, Lonely Planet Images\ Eric L. Wheater, Melvin Kobe

 

Mongolia: “Tie Up Your Dogs!”

Meeting people in Mongolia can be tough, mainly because it’s one of the most sparsely populated countries in the world. The vast steppes are empty of locals, not to mention foreigners, but that’s where the nomadic tradition of hospitality comes in. Mongolian hosts are unrivaled; should you happen upon a ger—a round tent made of animal skins—the inhabitants will gladly take you in.

As you approach a ger, shout the traditional greeting—“Tie up your dogs!”—and you’ll be welcomed with salt tea or airag (fermented horse milk) before feasting on a dinner of boiled mutton. Despite the language barrier, the older family members will accept your presence with nonchalance, passing your food and drink as if you were an old friend. The children, however, will gape at your every move—including your bathroom visits (the bathroom is wherever you choose it to be; fantastic views of the steppe guaranteed, but not a bush in sight).

After drinking more airag, you can settle down for the night in a bed of leathers and fleeces; the fire will be left blazing in the middle of the room. As a ger is only a few meters in diameter, your hosts will remain close by, so try not to snore too loudly—and forgive them if they do.

 

Sudan: “You From Around Here?”

If, when you’re wandering around the villages of northern Sudan, a stranger invites you home for dinner, say yes—the Sudanese are famed for their hospitality, and just so.

As your host leads you home, your presence will undoubtedly attract an audience of smiling children and inquisitive adults—news travels quickly in the farming communities north of Khartoum. Listen for the whispered word hawaja, which means, roughly, “He’s not from around here.”

You may find yourself led into the courtyard of a small mud hut, lit with a simple oil lamp and furnished with just a bed and washbasin. Despite the poverty, the welcome is enormous: small glasses of coffee and platters of dates and other fruits are there to whet your appetite, and the shaking of hands will continue through the evening as other guests join the meal, or simply show up to say “Asalam alekum.”

Sudanese cuisine is varied and delicious, usually eaten with bread, which serves as edible cutlery. Men and women dine separately, but you’ll often share the same bowl or plate with your hosts, so make sure to wash your hands before you dive into the communal dishes of fuul (stewed fava beans), goat or chicken, and other vegetables. Hospitality can only go so far, and grubby hands in the communal bowl’s a no-no.

 

Ireland: The Craic’s Mighty and the Guinness Is Flowing!

You’ll find Irish pubs all over the world, from Phnom Penh to Buenos Aires, but only those on the Emerald Isle itself offer true authenticity. Whether you’re in Dublin or a little village, and whether you look like a tourist or not, the welcoming cry of “Failte, failte!” will no doubt greet you—along with a deftly drawn pint of Guinness. And as you wait for your stout to settle, it may be impossible to avoid conversation with the person next to you, who will likely embark on an explanation of Guinness-quaffing etiquette.

By the end of the evening, you may find yourself not only talking to but dancing with the whole bar. Traditional music and dancing—ceilis—can be found in almost every village, town, or city; many dances erupt out of nowhere, and you’ll have no choice but to learn a few steps. If it’s a quiet night you’re after, however, you might want to consider a movie.

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