Stockholm, The Naked City

Article by Niclas Ericsson
Photo by Anthony Ellis

Stockholm may be the only world capital where people go skinny-dipping right in the middle of town. Of course, they usually take that clothing-free plunge in the wee hours of the morning, after a night at hot clubs like Debaser and Mondo, when the rules of society give way to the infamous Swedish libertarianism.

The city is actually perfectly designed for swimming: It’s spread across a number of islands located in and around the narrow passage between the Baltic Sea and Lake Mälaren. This means there is water literally five minutes from anywhere in the city center. On the mainland, too, there are numerous lakes.

Post-club skinny-dipping evolved in Stockholm not so much as a lascivious capper to a night out but as a matter of pragmatism: Who can be bothered to go home and get a swimsuit in the middle of the night? And, after a few drinks, who cares anyway?

Now, in the summer months of June, July, and August, when the sun rises at 3 a.m., it’s perfectly normal to ask whoever you’ve chatted up to go for a dip when the bar or club closes. As a matter of fact, it’s the ideal way to get friendly with the locals. Stockholmers are very proud that you can go swimming virtually anywhere in their beautiful and clean city.

Still, this relaxed attitude toward nudity has its limits. There are conservatives, even in liberal Scandinavia, and many inhabitants of Stockholm have moved there from other parts of the country and may not be familiar with this exotic custom. So, be reasonably discreet. By 7 a.m. on weekdays, when people are starting to go to work, it is no longer considered cool to be hanging out naked. If you really want to stay clothing-free, seek out a nude beach (see “Afternoon Delights”).

Likewise, just because everyone’s in their birthday suits doesn’t mean you’ve a license to gawk. Get undressed near the water and try to find a corner of your own. Most of the time boys will go to one side and girls to the other.

Perhaps most important, make sure you know where and how to get out of the water before you get in—especially after a few drinks. Three years ago, during a heat wave, I stripped and dived in just a few meters from a club entrance on Riddarholmen, one of the smallest islands in central Stockholm. I had to climb up on the anchor chain of one the boats lying there to get out of the water—only to realize that the scene had attracted quite a crowd.

LOWDOWN:
Where to Get Wet:

• City Hall has an excellent boat bridge on the west side. It is safe to dive here, but be sure to locate the ladder first.
• Skeppsholmen is a centrally located island where the Modern Museum is. Walk past the youth hostel af Chapman (a big white ship to the right of the bridge), and you’ll find a good spot.
• The Royal Palace: This is only if you want something to write home about. The royal palace is very centrally located, so it goes against that whole “Be discreet” thing. But I can assure you many have stripped off here before you.