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Scoop
Put Your Fest Foot Forward
Article by
Matt Goulding and Jeff Booth
Photos by: Art Gimbel, Jeff Booth, David Wootton, Courtesy of Edinburgh Festival Fringe
SPAIN: SAN FERMÍN AND THE RUNNING OF THE BULLS
Eighty years after Hemingway immortalized the weeklong celebration of Pamplona’s patron
saint in The Sun Also Rises, the stampede of enraged 1,300-pound bulls still occupies an exalted
spot on the risk-lists of adrenaline junkies the world over. Each July, the northern Spanish town
swells to twice its size with foreigners and paisanos seeking days filled with bullfights, flamenco
dancing, fireworks, and three of the most heart-wrenching minutes of their lives: the release of
the bulls and the ensuing chase through the streets. Come to Pamplona, and sleep on the hill
behind the sangria vendor if you must, but when Mother Nature throws the light switch on,
exposing isolated scenes of drunken depravity throughout the city, it’s time to lace up the shoes
or take cover behind the gates.
ST TIP: Right after the daddy bulls have run, take a seat in the Plaza de Toros to watch a ring
full of momentary matadors get abused by their spirited offspring. WHEN: July 6 to 14.
WHERE: Pamplona, Spain. HOW MUCH: Free. MORE INFO: sanfermin.com.
HUNGARY: SZIGET FESTIVAL
Geneva may have the United Nations, but Budapest
has the united nations of music: Sziget, the largest
music festival in Europe. Every summer for 13 years,
dozens of acts from all over the world—from headliners
like Franz Ferdinand to Malian funk, Norwegian
hardcore, French trance, Yiddish hip-hop, and even
American ska—converge on Òbuda Island, in the
middle of the Danube, to kick out the jams. Despite
the hundreds of thousands of music fans, Sziget still
retains a laidback atmosphere that’s inimical to sellouts.
And don’t worry about any language barriers
with most of the world jamming together—the beats
are international.
ST TIP: Camping is free on the island for everyone,
but show up on the 9th to make sure you stake out
a space far from the main tent – or you’ll never get
any sleep. WHEN: August 10 to 17, 2005.
WHERE: Budapest, Hungary. HOW MUCH:
Weeklong tickets, which include camping permits,
are only €100. One-day tickets are about €15.
MORE INFO: sziget.hu.
SCOTLAND: EDINBURGH FRINGE FESTIVAL
This eclectic offshoot of the annual Edinburgh International Festival began in 1947 when
a group of acting companies, snubbed by the “high-art” event, sought out a less-pretentious
alternative to display their talents. Augusts in the Scottish capital are now dominated
by the Fringe and the thousands who flock to the world’s largest performing-arts festival.
More than 1,500 daily shows offer spectators a chance to take in a healthy balance of
Shakespeare, stand-up comedy, and Tibetan yak-milk gargling. Venues range from classy
show halls to back-alley pubs thick with the smell of malt whiskey and deep-fried Mars
bars, a truly egalitarian event for the culturally deprived.
ST TIP: Pick up the daily Scotsman for reliable reviews, and keep an eye out for two-forone
specials. WHEN: August 7 to 29, 2005 (begins the first Sunday of every August).
WHERE: Edinburgh, Scotland. HOW MUCH: Tickets from £5. MORE INFO: edfringe.com.
SPAIN: LA TOMATINA
Myriad explanations exist for the origin
of this massive tomato battle: a peaceful
parade gone amok, an impulsive
response to a novice horn player, an
old woman’s reaction to the rising price
of produce. No one seems to care anymore—
the important thing is that every
year on the last Wednesday of August,
Buñol, a sleepy Spanish village of
9,000, plays host to the world’s largest
food fight.
It begins like any good Spanish street
party should: with a giant leg of cured
ham dangling from a greased pole. Once
the pole is scaled and the porcine treat
removed, the officials relinquish
125,000 kilos of tomatoes to the ravenous
crowd. What follows is a war of apocalyptic
dimensions: a solid hour of tomato-
hucking in which no one is safe from
the pulpy projectiles. In the dwindling
moments of the fight, the battleground
looks like an orgy sponsored by Prego.
ST TIP: Book Valencia accommodations
early, and bring
a change of clothes. WHEN: August
29, 2005. WHERE: Buñol, Spain, a
30-minute bus ride from Valencia.
HOW MUCH: Free. MORE INFO:
lahoya.net/tomatina.
PLANNING ON BEING IN EUROPE
FOR THE SUMMER but can’t make
it to any of these events? No worries.
Check out whatsonwhen.com for a
detailed list of summer festivals
across Europe.
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