The fact that Ifrane is a ski resort and, more horrifying, the coldest town on the African continent came to me as a surprise. It was two weeks after I had applied for an exchange program to Al Akhawayn University in Ifrane (AUI), Morocco. I had no choice but to accept that after all I wasn't going to be able to escape the winter of 2001.

A lot of people at Beloit College in Wisconsin, where I was majoring in Economics and International Relations, were surprised with my choice of Morocco. It wasn't really the country that they questioned, but that I was already an international student from Poland and had chosen to study in yet another foreign land. For me, however, it was an opportunity to explore another culture, and a new continent.

Passing the AUI main gate gave me the impression of leaving Morocco in exchange for an interesting mixture of Morocco blended with Europe and the U.S. For me it seemed particularly exciting as a European, studying in the U.S. and now in Morocco, I found a part of my own self in all those different backgrounds.

From living and studying in Europe, Asia, and the United States, I've learned there's no reason to expect that things–i.e., anything–will work the same way everywhere. This attitude helped me quickly adapt to the unique culture of AUI. Instead of complaining about the 10 p.m. curfew, single–sex dorms under 24–hour supervision, and the food, I tried to look at the brighter side of AUI "life."

I became involved with the Drama and Salsa Dance clubs, and tried to get to know as many people as I could. Inspired by Morocco's tradition, I even started running, though I'm no El–Guerrouj. I almost managed to quit smoking too; hard to do in a country where nearly everyone's got a pack–a–day habit.

Between classes, drama, salsa, running and everything, I swam in the salty Atlantic, baked in the sand of the Sahara, and breathed the cold air of the Atlas and Rif Mountains. I traveled across the country, dining in the homes of friendly Berber villagers during spring break, bargaining more than I ever had in my entire life, and watching how little people need to enjoy themselves. They were good ways to learn about this country. Memories of the incredible hospitality of ordinary people, couscous, tajine and Berber whiskey (very sweet mint tea) are what made my semester abroad in a Muslim country an extraordinary experience.

Classroom Connections
My semester at Al Akhawayn was packed with classes that not every small school in the U.S. could offer, such as introduction to Classical Arabic, and Islamic Civilization. My Arabic professor was one of the most enthusiastic teachers I've ever come across. He'd shake a student's hand every time an Arabic sound produced by one of the eight exchange students came out sounding about right. "Mumtaz, mumtaz" (Excellent, excellent) was his favorite comment as he would run to the table to congratulate someone on having just said, "I am a student from the United States."

Islamic Civilization lectures, however, were a little dry, but the fascinating content sometimes made up for it. The professor welcomed an open discussion, but the students clearly were not interested. Besides making occasional comments and engaging in discussions with a couple of exchange students, the thirty Moroccan students were incredibly passive–either not paying attention, spacing out, or waking up to turn off a ringing mobile phone. It was a good example of a class that the university administration designed as a graduation requirement. Not everybody was too interested in its content, so many took it with the smallest possible effort.

Clearly, academic life at AUI differs greatly from the liberal arts–and–sciences model in the U.S. Many institutions are not student–oriented to the same extent as American schools, which can easily cause frustration. Classes are often confined to pure lectures, without much opportunity for discussion. Even when discussion is encouraged, some views are not necessarily welcomed. There is little that can be done about it, so you have no choice but to adjust.

Probably the most obvious difference between the academic regime of Beloit and my temporary school in Ifrane was the incredible amount of free time that I had. Without a part–time job and with a reasonable workload, I was set free to explore the university and beyond. My involvement with the dance clubs helped me to avoid becoming isolated and spending too much time in the computer lab writing e–mails to friends.

Escaping the Green Men
Social life was quite different from what I was accustomed to in a residential college in the States. Due to various regulations, social life was limited on campus: Three restaurants, a snack bar, the Green Room (a common area that had only green furniture), and the school library were really the only places where people could spend their free time together. Student Activities occasionally organized a weekend party, which was great fun: The Moroccans didn't need much to entertain themselves–where there was music, there was dancing.

Luckily, the reach of the Green Men–the university security officers, who wore dark–green uniforms that let them hide, camouflaged, in bushes–did not extend off–campus. Ifrane did not have much to offer, but it was enough for the student body–a nightclub, two bars, a number of restaurants, and a local market. Morocco is a liberal Muslim country and does not prohibit alcohol consumption, but the taxes charged are incredible. One drink at the most popular bar was way above my budget, but many of the Moroccan students seemed to spend more than half the week there. Another way out was to rent a house for a weekend. This was not a problem, especially during the off–peak ski season, when Ifrane's businesses seemed to rely on the Al Akhawayn students.

I Am a Student, Don't Rip Me Off
After the end of the semester, I wanted to visit Marrakech, my favorite spot in the country. The highlight of the city is the famous square Djemaa el–Fna, which despite a great number of tourists remains a social and cultural center. Ali and Violette, fellow exchange students at Al Akhawayn, accompanied me on this trip. We spent a lazy May afternoon shopping and wondering through the labyrinth of streets in the old medina. We ended the day at Café Glacier, one of the many cafes around Djemaa el–Fna. Ali bought a favorite local board game played across the country. While we were sipping mint tea, he taught me the rules and we started playing. As the sun set, Djemaa el–Fna began transforming. Food vendors flavored the air above the square as they prepared their barbecues for the evening crowds. Magicians, snake charmers, storytellers and Berber acrobats started their shows.

"Aanaa taalib fii jzaamijat Al Akhawayn" (I am a student at Al Akhawayn University)–this one sentence opened many doors for us while traveling in Morocco. Knowing local customs made it easier to enjoy the hospitality, food and company of everyone that we came across while on a spring–break road trip. It was precisely this experience that proved to me that the small group of Marrakech street sellers who hassle and rip off tourists are not a true representation of society. The great advantage to studying abroad, as opposed to just visiting or learning about a particular place from the media or books, is the ability to learn a culture from the inside. One clearly cannot taste a homemade meal or experience the overwhelming hospitality of the people without interacting with them. Simply looking at their lives from behind the window of an air–conditioned tourist bus is not enough to see what different civilizations have to offer.

Travel and education combined together is especially important today. The aftermath of September 11 only proved how little we know about other cultures, and how many misconceptions there are on both ends of the spectrum. Education and traveling abroad, especially in a Muslim country, allows for an exchange of information and experiences among the people themselves without any biased media and politics. It helps to develop respect for other customs even if they're not in line with our own beliefs. Most importantly, it helps me realize that the Arab world is not confined to jihad (as defined in the West), terrorism and hate towards the West. Morocco and many other places like it are full of people just like ourselves who are eager to learn from us, and whom we should learn from as well.

Studying abroad can be an adventure, and frequently a challenge. Nevertheless, it's an unbelievable learning experience that changes one's views, desires and plans. To make it as much of an adventure as possible it is important to have the right expectations and adjust to (not attempt to change) the local academic, administrative and cultural customs. While choosing a study abroad location also think about a suitable place: one where culture, lifestyle and language is different from your own so that you can actually experience something unique.

My revelations in Morocco made me apply to yet another exchange program during my undergraduate career. While you are reading this, I will likely be struggling with my limited knowledge of Spanish during a study abroad semester in Ecuador with the Pontificia Universidad Católica del Ecuador. Global education can be addictive.

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