Mexico: Zapatourists in Chiapas

by Angelo Young

You've done the so-called "zapa-tour," as it is sometimes referred to in Mexico, and are ready to see a part of Chiapas rarely visited by outsiders. A lot of American and European tourists come to Mexico's southernmost state, attracted by romantic notions of the January 1, 1994 siege by masked Zapatista rebels on the towns of Ocosingo and San Cristobal. They're interested in the low-level of tension between the haves and have-nots, the army and the guerillas, the Catholics and the Protestants, that has stewed ever since. These travelers come sometimes donning "Che" shirts or Rasta hats, drums and sandals, and head up to the ruins of Palenque to do hallucinogenic mushrooms near the Misol-Há waterfalls.

It is no understatement to say that many Mexicans view these "zapaturistas" with disdain-Mexico is relatively conservative, the indigenous communities even more, and there's a long history of the country being the victim of foreign intervention. Simply put, most Mexicans don't like foreigners actively participating in the social and political development of the country. In fact, Mexico's constitution forbids foreign visitors from all but athletic and tourism activities. Special permission from the federal government is required to work, to teach, or even to engage in philanthropic activities in Mexico. Still, in most cases, you won't be bothered if you're working here. But, in Chiapas, things are different. A T-shirt emblazoned with the likeness of Subcommander Marcos (the self-proclaimed, pipe-smoking leader of the Zapatistas) worn in the wrong place in Chiapas and a misplaced tourist visa can get you deported, at your expense, and banned from returning to the country indefinitely.

But if you want to truly learn what is going on, you should consider traveling to the source of the conflict. Foreign travelers are generally very safe in Mexico, especially if they travel thoughtfully. A trip to the jungles of rural Chiapas will offer a rare glimpse into the social struggles faced by a Mexico in the face of modernity. Mexico's historic elections, where for the first time in over seven decades an opposition president will take office, hold a promise that the conflict in Chiapas may be resolved. Mexico's new president, Vicente Fox Quesada, has said he could resolve the conflict in this region "in fifteen minutes." That has yet to be seen. The nature of the problems in Chiapas is a result of hundreds of years of marginalization of the Maya communities here. Add to this seven decades of political favoritism and a fiefdom system of power, and you have what you see today: a struggle between those in favor of the status quo political system and those against. While Fox has pledged to solve the problem quickly through peaceful negotiations with the Zapatistas by meeting directly with Marcos, he has also said he would solve the problem quickly "another way" if the guerillas refuse to meet with him.

The so-called "conflict zone," the jungles of the eastern part of Chiapas which juts into Guatemala, is rarely visited by outsiders. Consider this trip a camping excursion for travelers interested in meeting the Tzeltal and Tzotzil Maya people and the villages from where the ranks of the Zapatistas were recruited. These valleys are known to the outside world only by anthropologists, expatriate rebel sympathizers and activists, and are rarely visited by those who might enjoy it the most-socially conscious outdoor adventurers interested in seeing out-of-the-way ruins tucked among lush valleys and jungle. This politically tense land is actually very beautiful, and the Maya are generally kind as long as you respect their customs and remain humble before their elders, leaders and especially the women and children. Visiting the rural communities of central Chiapas will provide travelers with a real education into the complexities of the social and political problems there. Travelers should be prepared for the rugged experience-boa constrictors, monkeys, jaguars and tapirs run wild here.

Before you embark, you should have an idea where you want to go. East of Ocosingo are hundreds of villages, dozens of them just off the road which takes you out. The village of La Sultana is one whose people welcome outsiders. Located about eight hours from Ocosingo, down a dirt road which is virtually washed out during the May-to-October rainy season, La Sultana is a perfect example of social marginalization in modern Mexico: no electricity, no running water, no sewage treatment, no nearby health facilities, no political representation, no formalized educational system. As you negotiate your way into this region, you can ask locals about other destinations.

The easiest way to get there is down the road past the Tonina ruins, located about eight miles outside of the town of Ocosingo, the main town between San Cristobal de las Casas and the popular tourist destination of Palenque. This is the central region of state, cut by lush valleys and small mountains. It's a region called "Las Cañadas," the Canyons, carved by rushing rivers snaking through jungle and canopied rain forest, though parts of this region have been ravaged by deforestation.

Once leaving the town of Ocosingo, you should bring everything you will need for the duration of your visit to these parts. Like many rural parts of the world, people who live here welcome outsiders but have little to offer. While travelers should not expect anything, they will find that the Maya people living here will often provide you with tortillas and shelter as long as travelers remain humble and don't cause any trouble. (Do not bring drugs or alcohol, greet the leader of the community first, speak Spanish, show respect and definitely do not get involved in any conflicts you might witness.) Travelers here will leave with an eye-opener to the fundamental problems facing this part of Mexico, and witness a landscape and community in a transitional crisis.

Since the 1950s, the highland Maya have been persuaded to settle into the tropical forests of Las Cañadas on parceled out communal agricultural plots from Mexico's populist land tradition. The Maya here still live wholly on subsistence agriculture, though some agricultural commerce is taking place, especially with coffee. The women here generally don't speak Spanish (since they rarely leave the communities, unlike the men) and even the men are more comfortable in their native Maya dialects. Today, sadly enough, much of the forest has been leveled; cornfields, ranches, hundreds of communities and military bases put in its place. The military presence in this region is strong (estimates put the number of soldiers in the state at about 30,000, or at least a fourth of Mexico's military manpower). Foreign travelers are in no danger if they avoid all political activities.

Also worth noting is the lack of commerce. Villages have small concession stores, consisting mainly of huts filled with canned goods and lukewarm Coca-Cola. Coffee, tortillas and beans can be purchased from villagers. Shelter is a common gift to travelers since there are no real hostels. Usually you can crash in the rarely used schoolhouses or unsupplied clinics. Otherwise, plan on bringing everything you might need. Crackers and jams are easy to carry and are rich in carbohydrates. A water filtration pump or purification tablets are very important.

To get to this remote region of Chiapas, leave San Cristobal around four a.m. Head toward the highway to Palenque, which is walking distance from the center of town. Take a microbus to the town of Ocosingo. An unforgettable dawn will greet you just as you get to your destination. The sun will begin to pierce through the fog and the mountains will be stunning. In Ocosingo, you will need to find the "camioneros," the truck drivers who usually convene near the airstrip in town where the microbus will let you off. There, you will need to negotiate fare to be taken out. You can ask to be taken to La Sultana, which is located on the banks of the impressive Jataté River. The fare will probably cost about $20 each way. For travelers with more money, airplanes can take you to towns only accessible by plane and by foot. Tickets generally cost between $30 and $70 each way and arrangements to be picked up need to be made beforehand. Airplanes are a good way to bring in a heavier stock of supplies for people interested in longer stays.

When traveling in Chiapas, it is very important to remember that by Mexican law requires you travel only as a tourist. Don't be intimidated by the soldiers, but it's highly recommended that you leave your faux-revolutionary T-shirts and political-looking literature at home, and do not be drawn into any form of activism. In 1997, the Mexican government began cracking down on foreign activists; while the urge to fight for the people in these communities may be strong, you do so at the risk of being deported.

Few people have ever come to this region on their own. If you feel like you would like to travel to these parts with some assistance, the Fray Bartoleme de las Casas Human Rights Center in San Cristobal de las Casas will assist you in the best places to go. Global Exchange, which sponsors so-called Reality Tours, can help you find your way. Whether you go alone or with help, a trip to central Chiapas will be one you will never forget.